The French Embrace English Terroir: A Sparkling Wine Revolution Driven by Climate Change
The seemingly paradoxical influx of French investment into English sparkling wine production is a testament to the undeniable impact of climate change on the world’s most celebrated sparkling wine region, Champagne. While the English might find amusement and the French indifference in this unusual collaboration, it represents a pragmatic response to an evolving viticultural landscape. The rising temperatures in Champagne are threatening the delicate balance required for producing the high-acid grapes essential for traditional method sparkling wine production. Meanwhile, across the English Channel, the chalk-rich soils and historically cooler climate of southern England are increasingly mirroring the ideal Champagne terroir of the past, presenting a unique opportunity for the future of sparkling wine.
Champagne, a symbol of French luxury and tradition, is governed by strict regulations and deeply rooted in its specific terroir. The northern French region’s location at the limits of viable viticulture has historically provided the necessary cool climate for cultivating grapes with high acidity. The chalky soils further contribute to the wine’s characteristic freshness and minerality. However, the warming climate is disrupting this delicate balance, leading to overripe grapes and impacting the quality of the final product. This has prompted French producers, including the prestigious Champagne house Taittinger, to seek alternative locations to safeguard the future of their craft.
The convergence of climate change concerns and historical ties has led Taittinger to invest heavily in English sparkling wine production. Their partnership with British Master of Wine Patrick McGrath, facilitated by a decades-long friendship with Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger, has culminated in the establishment of Domaine Evremond in Kent, England. This region shares a geological history with Champagne, boasting similar chalk-rich soils formed millions of years ago. Furthermore, the current climate in southern England resembles that of Champagne 50 years prior, offering a haven for traditional method sparkling wine production.
Domaine Evremond, named after the exiled 17th-century French poet and Champagne enthusiast Charles de Saint-Évremond, represents a significant commitment to English sparkling wine. The estate, spanning 125 hectares with nearly half under vine, is equipped with state-of-the-art facilities and benefits from the expertise of Taittinger’s winemaking team. Their inaugural Classic Cuvée, a blend of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Pinot Meunier, is set to be released in 2025 with a price tag reflecting its premium positioning. While the initial focus is on the UK market, Taittinger’s global distribution network positions Domaine Evremond for international expansion.
The meticulous planning and substantial investment in Domaine Evremond underscore the seriousness of this Anglo-French venture. The collaboration extends beyond financial backing and winemaking expertise, encompassing a commitment to sustainability and environmental responsibility. Efforts to restore hedgerows, cultivate wildflower meadows, and support bee populations reflect a holistic approach to land management and biodiversity conservation. The partnership between experienced viticulturalist Christelle Rinville and local expert Mark Gaskin further ensures the integration of French savoir-faire with intimate knowledge of the English terroir.
Domaine Evremond faces high expectations, given the decade-long lead-up to its first release. The pressure to deliver a high-quality product is amplified by the significant investment and the reputation of Taittinger. However, the combination of favorable terroir, experienced winemaking, and established distribution channels positions the estate for success. While the French market may remain unconvinced by English sparkling wine, the global appeal of a premium product crafted with French expertise and English terroir is undeniable. The emergence of Domaine Evremond represents a new chapter in the history of sparkling wine, driven by the challenges of climate change and the enduring pursuit of excellence.
